Buenos Aires is a city of neighborhoods. The neighborhoods are distinct and identifiable; the 43 barrios range from
the colorful houses constructed from castoff ship material in La Boca, to the CrossFit crazed parks amidst
skyscrapers of Palermo.
the colorful houses constructed from castoff ship material in La Boca, to the CrossFit crazed parks amidst
skyscrapers of Palermo.
During our time in Buenos Aires, we lived and worked in a 1920s mansion. You can read about it in Andrew’s very
thorough and funny review!
thorough and funny review!
Our magical mansion was a mere two blocks from Parque Lezama, a short run to the Reserva Ecologica (Ecological
Reserve), and a nice metro ride away from the Bosques del Palermo (Palermo Forests). Each of these places is a
beautiful green space in a city that is one of the most concrete covered in the world! Each illustrates the
communities that function around it.
Reserve), and a nice metro ride away from the Bosques del Palermo (Palermo Forests). Each of these places is a
beautiful green space in a city that is one of the most concrete covered in the world! Each illustrates the
communities that function around it.
The local park, Parque Lezama, is beautiful. The hilly landscape, diverse plants and inviting marble benches
attracted a range of ages and people from the local neighborhoods. The street front on the San Telmo is artsy
restaurants with fashionable patrons, while the street front to La Boca is brightly colored like the rest of the
neighborhood and is slightly derelict. On one side of the park is the wealth and stability of San Telmo and opposite
the needs and instability of La Boca; at least, that is what a local would tell a foreigner traveling in Buenos Aires.
This divide between neighborhoods is not isolated here. It is a feature of Buenos Aires.
attracted a range of ages and people from the local neighborhoods. The street front on the San Telmo is artsy
restaurants with fashionable patrons, while the street front to La Boca is brightly colored like the rest of the
neighborhood and is slightly derelict. On one side of the park is the wealth and stability of San Telmo and opposite
the needs and instability of La Boca; at least, that is what a local would tell a foreigner traveling in Buenos Aires.
This divide between neighborhoods is not isolated here. It is a feature of Buenos Aires.
The Reserva Ecologica is a natural reserve and bird sanctuary with native forest and an immense amount of
biodiversity! Andrew and I enjoyed morning runs through the Reserva and strongly recommend a visit to experience
the birdsong and breezes. Our run always took us through the, now ritzy, neighborhood of Puerto Madero. This
neighborhood has emerged as a boutique shopping area where you can grab a fancy dinner by the river. Not even
seven years ago, a foreigner would have been cautioned to steer clear of Puerto Madero, as it was a villa, or informal
housing settlement primarily inhabited by recent immigrants and people experiencing generational poverty. In
recent years, the government took on an aggressive revitalization campaign, to improve the lives of inhabitants.
However, the government efforts - perhaps intentionally - fueled incredibly fast gentrification. Looking at the
neighborhood now, I see nothing of the community that once lived here.
biodiversity! Andrew and I enjoyed morning runs through the Reserva and strongly recommend a visit to experience
the birdsong and breezes. Our run always took us through the, now ritzy, neighborhood of Puerto Madero. This
neighborhood has emerged as a boutique shopping area where you can grab a fancy dinner by the river. Not even
seven years ago, a foreigner would have been cautioned to steer clear of Puerto Madero, as it was a villa, or informal
housing settlement primarily inhabited by recent immigrants and people experiencing generational poverty. In
recent years, the government took on an aggressive revitalization campaign, to improve the lives of inhabitants.
However, the government efforts - perhaps intentionally - fueled incredibly fast gentrification. Looking at the
neighborhood now, I see nothing of the community that once lived here.
The Bosques de Palermo are near the Universidad de Buenos Aires and a spat of museums. The large green spaces
shaded by an aged canopy are full on most nights with groups of people swinging ropes, jumping and squatting to
complete burpees, or throwing heavy things around. Exercise in the park is a sign of status with the young and
affluent in Buenos Aires, and this community is home to that population - young, stylish, and affluent.
shaded by an aged canopy are full on most nights with groups of people swinging ropes, jumping and squatting to
complete burpees, or throwing heavy things around. Exercise in the park is a sign of status with the young and
affluent in Buenos Aires, and this community is home to that population - young, stylish, and affluent.
Bridged by the forests one can visit a more refined neighborhood with a quieter wealth seen in the variety of luxury
good shop, the space afforded to each building and the well maintained public spaces. Recoleta is gorgeous. It is the
wealthiest district in Buenos Aires and has access to all the public services that make a city desirable. Here one can
find a good public school, bus and metro stop, access to art shows and many gates.
good shop, the space afforded to each building and the well maintained public spaces. Recoleta is gorgeous. It is the
wealthiest district in Buenos Aires and has access to all the public services that make a city desirable. Here one can
find a good public school, bus and metro stop, access to art shows and many gates.
Recoleta, in its understated beauty and access to resources, provides a stark contrast to the largest informal
(illegal) housing settlement in Buenos Aires - Villa de Miseria. This villa is home to ten percent of the population by
some estimates, but getting an accurate count is very difficult. They have no legal access to any services - police,
firefighters, electricity, water, and plumbing. The precarious situation has been commented on by everyone, city
administrators to NGOs; all parties state that villas must be “urbanized”, or incorporated into the city as legal
housing. The government, with little success, has offered to give leases to people in their informal houses and have
them start to pay taxes. People in the settlements are resistant to the government as they know what happened in
Puerto Madero.
(illegal) housing settlement in Buenos Aires - Villa de Miseria. This villa is home to ten percent of the population by
some estimates, but getting an accurate count is very difficult. They have no legal access to any services - police,
firefighters, electricity, water, and plumbing. The precarious situation has been commented on by everyone, city
administrators to NGOs; all parties state that villas must be “urbanized”, or incorporated into the city as legal
housing. The government, with little success, has offered to give leases to people in their informal houses and have
them start to pay taxes. People in the settlements are resistant to the government as they know what happened in
Puerto Madero.
Talking with people within the city, there are mixed emotions about the government interventions. Many people
think that displacing people through gentrification is despicable, but an equal portion I talked with thought that
informal housing leads to the majority of the problems in the city. Interestingly, in Villa de Merlo, in Cordoba, and
in Mendoza (three other places in Argentina) every Argentinian I spoke to about Villa de Miseria said that the
government was responsible for ending the settlements but not to help the people who lived there.
think that displacing people through gentrification is despicable, but an equal portion I talked with thought that
informal housing leads to the majority of the problems in the city. Interestingly, in Villa de Merlo, in Cordoba, and
in Mendoza (three other places in Argentina) every Argentinian I spoke to about Villa de Miseria said that the
government was responsible for ending the settlements but not to help the people who lived there.
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