New Year - New Blog!

Follow us at our new travel blog:

Wandering with Kateri & Andrew
Link: wanderingka.wordpress.com

Happy New Year to all our readers! One of our resolutions is to post more often - which means more pictures and shorter, more timely updates.

To help us reach that goal we're switching the format of our blog - from Blogger to Wordpress. This should help us spend more time on content and less on fixing formatting issues.

We also renamed the site - we're still visiting parks but they're not a centerpiece of our travels.

Look for future posts at wanderingka.wordpress.com
We will leave this site up as an archive - but we won't have more updates here.

City of Neighborhoods

Buenos Aires is a city of neighborhoods. The neighborhoods are distinct and identifiable; the 43 barrios range from
the colorful houses constructed from castoff ship material in La Boca, to the CrossFit crazed parks amidst
skyscrapers of Palermo.

During our time in Buenos Aires, we lived and worked in a 1920s  mansion. You can read about it in Andrew’s very
thorough and funny review!

Our magical mansion was a mere two blocks from Parque Lezama, a short run to the Reserva Ecologica (Ecological
Reserve), and a nice metro ride away from the Bosques del Palermo (Palermo Forests). Each of these places is a
beautiful green space in a city that is one of the most concrete covered in the world! Each illustrates the
communities that function around it.

The local park, Parque Lezama, is beautiful. The hilly landscape, diverse plants and inviting marble benches
attracted a range of ages and people from the local neighborhoods. The street front on the  San Telmo is artsy
restaurants with fashionable patrons, while the street front to La Boca is brightly colored like the rest of the
neighborhood and is slightly derelict. On one side of the park is the wealth and stability of San Telmo and opposite
the needs and instability of La Boca; at least, that is what a local would tell a foreigner traveling in Buenos Aires.  
This divide between neighborhoods is not isolated here. It is a feature of Buenos Aires.

The Reserva Ecologica is a natural reserve and bird sanctuary with native forest and an immense amount of
biodiversity! Andrew and I enjoyed morning runs through the Reserva and strongly recommend a visit to experience
the birdsong and breezes. Our run always took us through the, now ritzy, neighborhood of Puerto Madero. This
neighborhood has emerged as a boutique shopping area where you can grab a fancy dinner by the river. Not even
seven years ago, a foreigner would have been cautioned to steer clear of Puerto Madero, as it was a villa, or informal
housing settlement primarily inhabited by recent immigrants and people experiencing generational poverty. In
recent years, the government took on an aggressive revitalization campaign, to improve the lives of inhabitants.
However, the government efforts - perhaps intentionally - fueled incredibly fast gentrification. Looking at the
neighborhood now, I see nothing of the community that once lived here.

The Bosques de Palermo are near the Universidad de Buenos Aires and a spat of museums. The large green spaces
shaded by an aged canopy are full on most nights with groups of people swinging ropes, jumping and squatting to
complete burpees, or throwing heavy things around. Exercise in the park is a sign of status with the young and
affluent in Buenos Aires, and this community is home to that population - young, stylish, and affluent.

Bridged by the forests one can visit a more refined neighborhood with a quieter wealth seen in the variety of luxury
good shop, the space afforded to each building and the well maintained public spaces. Recoleta is gorgeous. It is the
wealthiest district in Buenos Aires and has access to all the public services that make a city desirable. Here one can
find a good public school, bus and metro stop, access to art shows and many gates.

Recoleta, in its understated beauty and access to resources, provides a stark contrast to the largest informal
(illegal) housing settlement in Buenos Aires - Villa de Miseria. This villa is home to ten percent of the population by
some estimates, but getting an accurate count is very difficult. They have no legal access to any services - police,
firefighters, electricity, water, and plumbing. The precarious situation has been commented on by everyone, city
administrators to NGOs; all parties state that villas must be “urbanized”, or incorporated into the city as legal
housing. The government, with little success, has offered to give leases to people in their informal houses and have
them start to pay taxes. People in the settlements are resistant to the government as they know what happened in
Puerto Madero.

Talking with people within the city, there are mixed emotions about the government interventions. Many people
think that displacing people through gentrification is despicable, but an equal portion I talked with thought that
informal housing leads to the majority of the problems in the city. Interestingly, in Villa de Merlo, in Cordoba, and
in Mendoza (three other places in Argentina) every Argentinian I spoke to about Villa de Miseria said that the
government was responsible for ending the settlements but not to help the people who lived there.

If you are interested in a history of the villas in Buenos Aires, read more here.

Carnivore Culture in Argentina

Argentina's food culture is all about MEAT! This is a little sad for Kateri’s diet, but a big windfall for Andrew’s protein intake. The new meat-based experiences fall into a few categories:

Street Food

As in many cultures, Argentina is home to an array of questionable streetside foods. The most everpresent and consistent is Choripan - a combination of Chorizo (sausage), pan (bread), and Chimichurri. This simple sandwich is something of a national heritage, replete with festivals, monuments and documentaries devoted to the dish.

Of the Choripan consumed so far, the only disappointment (stale bread, bland sausage, feelings of soullessness) was with a vegan option, ordered in futile optimism by Kateri. We discussed the higher price and inferior quality with Ben, our first host, a former chef and current entrepreneur/renaissance man. A pearl of wisdom flowed naturally from his childhood in a vegetarian household and experiences in professional meat-cookery:

“Let meat be meat, vegetables don’t need to pretend to be delicious”

Parrilla & Asada

In pursuit of that goal, there is no more pure expression of all that is meat than the humble Asado (barbecue) and the bountiful Parrilla (meat-tastic smorgasboard). In our second week in Buenos Aires, I was happy to join in preparing a Parrilla by acting as sous-chef for two organ meats on the fire - Chinchullias (intestines) and Morcheca (sweetbreads - the glands of the cow). I learned to ‘express’ and braid the intestines from YouTube.

Intestines are not for the faint of heart, consisting of a chewy outside and a squishy inside, something like a thick meat noodle. The flavor divides Argentines, but I’m a big fan. Since most in the U.S. don’t eat these, you can pick them up from a bargain at whole-cow butchers. Friends can expect odd discount barbecues when I return.

Sweetbreads are a better option for those with delicate palettes, like the softest, butteriest chicken breast you can imagine. You’ve probably seen them on a cooking show or two if you’re into the Food Network or Chef’s Table.

We also dined on a full slate of cow-based delectables, including steak, chorizo, blood pudding, and chicken, courtesy of head BBQ master Jack of Australia. The keys here are a wood fire, high quality cows, salt and lemon. Argentina’s primary export and culinary pride is its cow production, and meat is often cheaper than veggies here. Everyone gets a little of the distinct flavors of each cut - the meat is meat in all its variety.

Eating under the stars for an Argentinian Thanksgiving - last night in Buenos Aires

Non-Meat

There are also vegetables. I eat them and they taste good. Here is Kateri enjoying a squash with some cheese that was wonderful.

But seriously this was delicious, only time I wish we'd ordered two of the veggie-options.
At 'No Tire Godoy' in Villa Merlo

Compliment Dogs in Spanish

Dogs are a huge part of Argentine culture, and Argentine people have one of the highest percentages of pet ownership in the world! Every day we meet new puppies. The best name so far is Jon Snow - featured licking my face in the picture!

With so many dogs around, it is an important language skill to exclaim: "What a cute dog!", "Good Boy", and more in Spanish.

1. Good Dog: Buen(a) perro(a) o Buen(a) chico(a)
2. How Cute: Que Lindo(a)
3. Sweetie: Cariño(a) o Ricuro(a)
4. Precious: Eres Preciosuro(a)
5. I love dogs: Me encanta perros

Hopefully, your travels will soon take you to a place where complimenting a dog in Spanish is a part of your daily life!

Learning from New Friends

The unifying theme of our first week of travel has been learning from the people around us. Everyday has brought an adventure because there are other humans involved - joyous, upset, and the wonderful spectrum between!

Setting: Busy marketplace on Calle de Carmen in Cuidad de Mexico. We only had a day there and took a ton of suggestions from this Conde Nast post. There are colorful assortments of mass-produced goods stacked two people high. At nine in the morning, people are just starting to move through the streets with purpose.

¿Que vendes?

Mural stumbled upon at a public library in Mexico City.

An older Mexican woman, in orange shorts and a pink graphic t-shirt, re-fries tamales from the day before. She makes a perfectly logical picture in riotous colors of the market. We engage her in Spanish and listen to her stories from a life in Mexico City while she preps the tamales Andrew ordered. Excitedly tripping over my Spanish attempt to recount our discovery of a Diego Rivera mural, she tells us there are a number of other locations around the city. She pivots from Diego to lovingly describe the Frida Kahlo museum; her description telling us about the strength of Mexican women who do what needs to get done.

Handing Andrew his food, she exclaims ‘Disfruta! Disfruta! Disfruta! Vidas son cortas; busca la belleza!’ Enjoy! Enjoy! Enjoy! Life is short; look for the beauty.

Mas Comida: Andrew le gusta la comida de Mexico.

We have wandered past oodles of taco vendor on the streets, but one stall is full of people - a family sits helping a child eat, workers walk up take three tacos and continue on and older men sit over cups of soup. Andrew wants tacos and this stall is where we are going. The front of their table is taken up by a pile of skulls with some flesh still attached. Andrew tries to ask for tacos and does a great job hitting the person standing next to him in the face while gesticulating, but a poor job ordering! He eventually communicates that he wants lengua and cabeza (tongue and head cheese). The vendor’s school age son is helping him, and he gives us cups of the soup - cow head broth, which leads to our question.

This, but with some meat and ten more.

¿Cuántos cabezas usas cada día? How many heads do you use each day? The taco vendor responds, about thirty. When we finish selling the tacos from those we are done for the day. He was very firm; you need to plan your work and not let it plan you.

Setting: Bright well lit hostel Portal del Sur in Buenos Aires. It is a classic Argentinean edifice with a central courtyard boasting wrought iron railings for the inner balconies, and draped plants around the the center opening onto balconies to provide undisrupted sunshine through all the floors!

Good Footy Mate!

The central courtyard of Portal del Sur.

A mid-twenty year old guy with a high and tight haircut, expertly done by one of his travel mates, wandered into the common area with a deck of uno and a two-liter bottle of 40 peso vodka ($2.4 US). He did not introduce himself, rather he poured everyone a cup of very strong and rather terrible vodka and soda passed it around to anyone who would imbibe and started dealing uno cards while explaining which rules we would and would not be using. His friend sat next to him and moderated the outrageous stories from their travels through Nicaragua, Colombia, and Uruguay. Eventually, we got their names, because I asked if  “Frankie” was one of them or an imaginary friend (as they gestured to an empty chair each time they spoke about him). This elicited a lot of laughter and jokes. They each introduced themselves and wrapped up our competitive uno game with their advice to play for the best game, or good footy, and compliment others on their good footies.

Setting: A lightly furnished heavily populated rooftop asado (barbeque) in Buenos Aires. With clusters of people talking in an assortment of languages with a stunning view of the city lights.

¿Por qué eres tan generoso?

Our second night in Buenos Aires, we were in dorms at a new hostel. I was having an argument with my door about opening (maybe abusing it a tad - kicking it) and met one of my roommates, Luis. He stopped me, took the old fashioned key out of my hand and told me in Spanish to flip it over. I started chatting with him in broken Spanish and with the patience of a seventy two year old who has grandchildren he listened. Fifteen minutes later he was pulling necklaces out of his bag, explaining that he was an artist and gifting me with a necklace. On the roof, three hours later he has shared his work (seen here), his mate (Argentine drink) and his experiences. I have learned about his life in rural Mendoza, his grown daughter’s career in theater, and his generous spirit motivated by his philosophy. At one in the morning, surrounded by millennials, Luis was asked why he was so generous. He explained that life is only full when you have shared what you have. When you have a little you share a little. When you have a lot you share more. He wanted to make sure that we understood that giving allows you to love where you are in life, because you always have enough to give.

You can see his artwork here: https://www.facebook.com/LuisMCueros/

Setting: Free tango in a large bandstand Plaza Dorrego. People whirling by in stiletto dancing shoes and music pouring through the growing group of around twenty people.

¿Sabes bailar el tango?

I can't dance, and these women fly in three inch heels!

We met a young graphic designer from England and a recent graduate from a high school in the Netherlands and brought them out to dance with us. There is free tango all around Buenos Aires if you want it! It was a blast to trip over ourselves and learn, but we wanted to dance. So, I approached a man in Spanish and asked him “Sabes tango - Do you know tango?” Looking at me like I was slightly crazy, he responded with a drawn out “Siii” and a gesture around the bandstand to the group of people assembled specifically to dance the tango. Emboldened by his sass I asked him to show the two men in our group how to lead. He smiled and helped us out. After his brief but essential tutorial we went off to one side to practice. An older Argentinian woman came up to us and told us we were doing it wrong. In rapid fire Spanish she told us we needed to feel the music and listen to the tempo; we needed to use smaller steps and most importantly stop laughing, which of course made us laugh. She then proceeded to hit one of us and grab the hand of another to show us how it is done! A good friend says she sounds like a Russian ballet coach. All I know is Argentinians take the Tango very seriously! Walking home I felt an overwhelming joy at having tried something new in front of strangers and the firm resolution to try again. If able, one should take the risk.

Setting: Artsy restaurant in San Telmo with fascinating paintings and music covers on every inch of available space. The Ferria, or open air market, is happening outside and we have found quiet seats away from the sun and dust in this nearly empty building.

Andrew caught us chatting and loving every minute!

¿Eres una rockstar?

Parched from a sunny three mile walk in 31 C (89 F) weather Andrew and I sit for a while journaling with drinks. In anticipation of the long walk back, I get up to use the bathroom. Coming back to our table, a roughly sixty year old woman stops me and looks me up and down. In my head, I am thinking ‘I am about to get lectured on appropriate dress’ as I was wearing a black tank top with a bit of midriff showing below my pendant necklace. She smiles broadly at me and asks if I am a rockstar. I laugh and say no! We joke about my poor Spanish; she and her companion compliment me for trying. The conversation is exuberant and fills the whole space with laughter and a feeling of mischief. The women are drinking half liter beers and communicate that the bar never closes at this particular establishment. They invite us back to join them for drinks later as they will need to be carried out with wheelbarrows! Our loving exchange emphasizes that language barrier are no excuse for not making new friends. Make mistakes and laugh about them!